Technical Information For Fauser Security
Windows and Doors

Window and Door Configuration
Security Glazing
Awnings

Measuring and Installing Windows

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Measuring the Window: Measure only the rough opening. Take a measurement each at the top and at the bottom and at the left and right side. Take the smaller of the measurements. At the factory, we will deduct 3/8" on each side of the window for the final window size. This will guarantee the proper spacing and allow for adjustments. At that time you will have to make a decision: How are you going to trim the window out? Flush on the inside or outside or somewhere in between? There are many snap-on profiles which make this task easy and efficient.Contact us at that time, send us a section drawing of the opening, indicating where in the frame you would like to position the window and how you would prefer to trim it out. We then will provide you with drawings of different possible installation profiles for you to choose from. The same goes for the door position.

Once the window is inside the rough opening, position it according to plan (flush with siding/set-back e.g.). Using an appropriate spirit level, check the sill for level and shim beneath each jamb leg as needed. If the window is unusually wide, shim the sill midway between legs, as well. Check the sill frequently throughout the installation to ensure that it has not shifted out of position. Check for equal spacing on the left and right side of jamb. With appropriate drill bit, drill through the pre-drilled hole in the left lower corner of the frame, into the substrate. Take a supplied screw and fasten this corner.HINT:The supplied screws are made of hardened steel. They work in wood, brick and concrete. For wood and brick use a 6 mm bit, for concrete use 6.5mm (shipped with order).

Using an appropriate spirit level, check the window for plumb and square. If necessary, adjust either by slipping shims between the jamb and the framing. When the window is straight, pre-drill and fasten upper left corner. Next fasten the lower and upper right side of the window. If you have to adjust or move the window, back out the screw until it clears the stud, adjust the window and screw it back in. The screw should be flush with the surface of the frame. Not too deep and not protruding. These are continuous threaded screws which make this process simple. Fill space between rough opening and window with good quality Polyurethane Foam. All of the pictures above and below show a built-in Rolling Shutter. Disregard if not applicable.

Using the supplied hex key, you are now ready to adjust the window. On the inside, upper corner you find an adjustment screw for the left and right movement as well as up and down movement of the window. The lower and outside hinge is where you adjust the window up and down as well as left and right.The seal pressure can be adjusted with the locking pins on the handle side of the frame. These pins have a cam-action sleeve which will apply more or less pressure on the seals. All settings are factory set and should not have to be adjusted under normal circumstances. The seal pressure adjustment is for an adjustment years down the road if the seals should compact over the years.

If the frame needs to be adjusted more then the adjustment screws can accomplish, you will have to remove the snap-on glass stops which keep the glazing in place. Take a sharp 4" spatula and pry the profile loose. Start with the longest side first.

In reverse, take the shortest profile first, hand press it into the frame and complete the insertion with the tapping of a Plastic or Rubber Hammer! HINT:Should you ever scratch the vinyl frame, you can sand the scratches out with 180 sandpaper, continue with finer paper 600 and finish with a polishing paste. The frame will be like new again.

Each glazing panel is held in place by plastic spacers, two each in the upper left corner and on the lower hinge side. Since the glazing panel holds the frame in place, any rough up and down adjustment can be made with adding or subtracting spacers on the top and bottom.If the frame needs to come down you will have to take a spacer out and add it to the lower corner. If the frame needs to go up, you add a spacer on top and take one out of the lower corner. You will have to use a lever in order to create enough space to slip a spacer in. Never use any metal or other hardened material against the glazing! It will crack the glass panels! Only use plastic or wood! HINT:The aluminum spacer bar contains all possible information about: date of manufacturing (warranty), size of glass in mm, security level of glass and type of lowE coating.

The above installation outline is only a rough description of the process. But with the purchase of Fauser windows you also get our full consumer service package, including: Any form of help needed in choosing your window, help with deciding how to mount and trim-out the windows and finally all the advice needed in order to guarantee a successful installation. We are available per fax, telephone and e-mail. With larger projects, we can send a factory trained installer to oversee the installation and guarantee the installation.

FAUSER windows and doors are like a finely tuned machine. The better you level and plumb the frame during installation, the better the windows and doors will perform!

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